Fred Beckey is something of a myth, a celebrated
“dirtbag”—think a vagabond ski bum for the mountaineering set—who sacrifices
everything to climbing. Normal people don’t know his name, but the hardcore
speak of him with reverence and awe. It’s difficult to live up to such hype,
but when we meet the man himself in Dave O’Leske’s documentary, Dirtbag:
The Legend of Fred Beckey, he more than lives up to the billing.
At one point, an ex-girlfriend—one of many—calls him, “A
different sort of creature,” and there’s no better description. Beckey makes
for perfect documentary fodder. He’s led a fascinating life and had a
wide-reaching impact, but outside of certain small circles and a specific
niche, he’s almost wholly unknown.
And he’s also a total a wingnut. While it recounts his
earlier years, Dirtbag also keeps up with his
current life, tracking him from his mid-80s into his 90s, where he’s still
trying to summit mountains and leave his mark. Even today, he talks a mile a
minute, always with an eye towards the skyline.
Singularly driven, starting as a youth in Seattle, Beckey
began climbing mountains and never stopped. He owns first ascents on peaks all
over the world and has climbed just about anything you can climb. But like any
obsessive, this comes at a high cost. He never married, had kids, or settled
down; he’s left a trail of burned bridges behind him; and watched colleagues,
friends, and lesser climbers become stars, get all the glory, and find success.
Not that any of that matters to him. For the most part, he appears perfectly
happy and satisfied.
Beckey is an iconoclastic outsider by choice. Everything in
his life takes a backseat to the climb. There’s an enviable freedom to this way
of living, where he’s beholden to no one and nothing but himself. Dirtbag features
endless stories from friends about Fred dropping everything at a moment’s
notice to drive cross-country for an ascent or to find the next adventure. This
is the kind of story that makes you want to ditch your worldly belongs, pack a
bag, and hit the road with nothing but the clothes on your back and exploration
on the mind.
There’s an unbridled joy to Beckey’s tale, but there’s also
a lingering sadness. Again, he’s paid a steep price. A meticulous
note-taker—he’s written multiple climbing guides and books—he lives surrounded
by envelopes cataloging various climbs, ascents, and routes. He has friends and
well-wishers, but while it’s funny to watch him scroll through his phone
looking for his next climbing partner, it’s equally heartbreaking to see him fail
and realize how alone he is.
And while his mind remains sharp, over the course of the
film, we see age finally start to catch up with and overtake him. Though his
spirit remains willing, he continually, doggedly tries and fails to conquer
mountains, trails, and routes he could have done with his eyes closed in earlier
days. This takes a toll, and though his heart is still in the game, his body
simply can’t keep up.
Rebellious and uninhibited, Fred Beckey inspires and
frustrates, enthralls and confounds. It’s easy to see why he attracted people
to him like moths to fire for his whole life. He’s compelling, engaging, and
kind of a dick, which all makes Dirtbag, playing SIFF
Cinemas, fascinating and entertaining as all hell. [Grade: B+]
This is a reprint of a review originally published
during the 2017 Seattle International Film Festival. In the interim, Fred Beckey
passed away in October of 2017 at the age of 94.
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